Maple Turning



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Lot of 2 Spalted Ambrosia Maple Black Line Figured Lathe Turning Blocks 9056
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LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 1L
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LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 5
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LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 7
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4 SPALTED MAPLE 12 TURNING BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCK CA
4 SPALTED MAPLE 12 TURNING BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCK CA
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HUGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK TURNING BLOCK LUMBER 15 B
HUGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK TURNING BLOCK LUMBER 15 B
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LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 1D
LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 1D
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LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 1
LARGE AMBROSIA MAPLE BOWL BLANK BLOCK LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER WOOD 1
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MAPLE BOWL BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCKS WOOD LOT OF 8
MAPLE BOWL BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCKS WOOD LOT OF 8
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4 MAPLE BOWL BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER 6 x 6 x 3
4 MAPLE BOWL BLANKS LATHE TURNING BLOCK LUMBER 6 x 6 x 3
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Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 2 2 X 2 X 125 Good Figure
Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 2 2 X 2 X 125 Good Figure
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Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 4
Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 4
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Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 6
Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 6
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Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 3
Spalt Black Line Maple Turning Blank 3
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JUMBO Curly Maple Pen Blanks Turning Wood 10
JUMBO Curly Maple Pen Blanks Turning Wood 10
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Birdseye maple wood turning blanks
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BE Maple Pen turning blanks
BE Maple Pen turning blanks
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Maple Burl 2 Wood Turning Blanks 14
Maple Burl 2 Wood Turning Blanks 14
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How to Grow Japanese Red Maples from Seed

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Most Japanese Maple seeds ripen in the fall. Watch the tree and
wait for the seeds to turn brown. The seeds are ready to be
harvested when they are brown and can be easily removed from the
tree.

  The seeds are attached to a wing, it's best to break the wing
off before storing or planting the seeds. Japanese Maple seeds
have a very hard outer coating as do many ornamental plants.
Under natural conditions the seeds would have to be on the
ground for almost two years before they would germinate. All
that happens the first winter is the moisture softens the hard
outer shell, and the second winter germination is beginning to
take place.

  In order for all of this to happen in the proper sequence so
the seedlings actually sprout at a time of the year when
freezing temperatures or hot summer sun doesn't kill them, takes
a tremendous amount of luck.

  You can improve the odds by controlling some of these
conditions, and shorten the cycle. Once you have picked the
seeds and removed the wing just place them in a paper bag and
store them in a cool dry place until you are ready for them. You
don't want to plant your seeds out in the spring until the
danger of frost has past. Here in the north May 15th is a safe
bet.

  If May 15th is your target date you should count backwards on
the calendar 100 days. That will take you to about February 5th
if my math is correct. On or about the 100th day prior to your
target planting date, take the seeds and place them in a
Styrofoam cup or other container that will withstand some hot
water. Draw warm to hot water from your kitchen faucet and pour
it over the seeds. Most of the seeds will float, just leave them
in the water overnight as the water cools down. 24 hours later
most of the seeds will have settled to the bottom of the cup.

    Drain off the water. Place the seeds in a plastic bag with a
mixture of sand and peat or other suitable growing mix. Even
light potting soil will work. The peat or soil should be moist,
but not soaking wet. Poke some holes in the bag so there is some
air circulation, and place the bag in your refrigerator for a
period of 100 days.

  After 100 days you can plant the seeds outside. If you have
timed it correctly, you should be at or close to your target
planting date.

  To plant the seeds just sow them on top of a bed of well
drained topsoil or sterilized potting soil, and cover with
approximately 3/8" of soil. Water them thoroughly, but allow the
soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly again. If
you water them frequently, not only do you stand a chance of the
seeds rotting from being too wet, but you will also keep them
cool, which will slow down the germination process.

  Once they start to germinate provide about 50% shade to keep
the sun from burning them. Snow fence suspended about 30" above
the bed will provide about 50% shade. Japanese Maples will
tolerate some shade so it isn't too important to transplant them
too quickly. Depending on how close together they are, you might
be able to leave them in the same bed for one or two growing
seasons. Don't transplant until they are completely dormant.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his
most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up
for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by

http://gardening-articles.com

About the Author

Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the
landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part
of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with
plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a
manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

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